1 week ago
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By Christy Anyanwu
The Ade Bakare Couture label is a luxury brand of elegant and classic clothes with a modern twist. The label consists of day and evening wear, with a bridal range using exquisite fabrics such as chiffon, duchess satin, zibeline, lace and other pricy material. Some of his signature designs that have become successful over the years are his silk gazar sweep coats, puff-sleeved blouses, high-neck jackets, beaded kaftans and the frilled African boubou. His collections now embrace his African heritage and his beautiful designs can be seen interpreted in the silk adire and Aso Oke he has now made famous. Recently, he incorporated T-shirts in his collection.
The Ade Bakare Couture label was set up in 1991 in London, England, through a loan from the Prince of Wales’s Youth Business Trust. Ade Bakare spoke with Saturday Sun in Lagos.
How has it been with you in the fashion business?
Business at the moment, in the UK and Nigeria, is progressing. But so many factors come into play. In the UK, there has been a slight lull due to the economic situation and uncertainty with the Labour government and its policies. Clients now tend to focus more on our couture styles. Though more expensive, it offers lasting quality. In Nigeria, it is almost a similar situation; with the weak naira, clients buy less and also focus on quality. We are seeing a slight shift from indigenous fabrics, perhaps due to a slight overkill. We have been fortunate to create our own look over the years in this area and we are now reaping the results. Generally, I would say it’s challenging but this is when fashion designers or people in the creative industry have to offer new, exciting designs. After all, research has shown that most people have more than enough clothes in their wardrobe. So, if you want patronage, you have to offer something captivating and new.
What has changed in the fashion industry since you started?
When we started our business in 1991, we focused initially on ready-to-wear clothes. We used to sell to boutiques and stores across the UK. We produced two collections a year; autumn/winter and spring/summer of high end women’s wear. It’s a lot different from today. Then we sold according to the season and to fashion buyers. They would look at your collection and if they liked it might order a few styles. If it sold, they would do a repeat order, which was where the revenue really came from. Styles that sold were called “bestsellers.” Now it’s slightly different with social media and the advent of websites and now Instagram. You can sell directly to your customers. Seasons have changed, too. People live in different parts of the world and maintain houses. They migrate to warmer climates and so might seek summer clothes even in winter periods. Fashion is all about change and one has to adapt to survive and remain relevant. In Nigeria, things should also progress and government can do a lot to support the fashion and textile industry.
In what way can government support the Nigerian fashion industry?
In Nigeria, the government can do a lot to support the fashion and textile industry. The government should offer incentives to the private sector to start manufacturing textiles in Nigeria. With a population of over 200 million people, we have a captive market. The patronage in Nigeria alone is enough for any business to survive. International textiles suppliers can be mandated to set up manufacturing units in the country. I remember when we wanted to sell our ready-to-wear line in New York, we were advised to produce and sell in America to cut the red tape of import. Export is key. US President Donald Trump is keen on making America a manufacturing hub, which has brought much wealth to China. More technical schools should be set up in Nigeria to train fashion designers, pattern cutters, textile designers, etc. Guild schools should also be developed and promoted. Nigerians are very fashionable and yet there is still a huge demand for tailors. Tariffs should be placed on textiles coming into the country and a complete ban on fake indigenous fabrics produced abroad such as Aso Oke, Akwete and Adire, to mention a few.
What would you tell someone who wants to go into fashion business?
The major advice for anyone who wants to become a successful fashion designer is to have a passion for fashion, to remember it’s a profession, not a hobby. So, study it, get some form of formal education, go to a fashion university or college.
If you do not have the opportunity, then train under an established fashion house. Get lots of work experience. It is very crucial. The knowledge and information you gather at the early stages will be very beneficial in the future
What are the challenges of the industry, especially with current economic crises?
As in any industry or career path, you will always encounter hurdles. The fashion industry is no different. A fashion designer should know the audience they want to design for and know the buying pattern of their clients. It is also very important for the designer to offer something new and interesting. If a client has is going to part with their money in these austere times, it must be for a design they find irresistible. I remember once I was walking down Oxford Circus in London and was looking at the shop window displays in Selfridges. The designs were so exquisite. I said to myself, when there is a recession the designer has to go back to the drawing board and come up with designs that will captivate clients.
English (US) ·